Before living in Doha, Ramadan to me was a concept that I was familiar with on an intellectual basis only. I generally knew that during Ramadan, practicing Muslims fasted from sun up until sun down. I knew that during Ramadan, you did not eat or drink during daylight hours in public. This, of course, is true. However, since being in Doha, I have realized that Ramadan is much more than that.
There are a number of wonderful things that I have observed so far about observing Ramadan. No matter where you are in the city, it is obvious that the holy month is here. There are festive decorations in shopping malls and the stores are filled with colorful signs exclaiming “Ramadan Kareem!”. It seems that at this time of year, everyone is in a good mood and there is a celebratory feel to each evening. This is akin to the mood that you might see leading up to Christmas in Christian countries. The days of work are shorter - the government has declared that offices and schools will be open from 9 am until 2 pm only for the month of Ramadan. Afternoons are warm (45C) and long, and each evening is filled with social gatherings so that friends and family can share in breaking of the fast, both at home and in restaurants. There are lavish tents set up at all of the 5 star restaurants that put on decadent buffets to break the fast (called the Iftar meal) and allow people to feast from 9 pm until 2 am.
Qatar is a country where most shopping, movement and activity tends to happen during the evening because it’s the coolest part of the day. During Ramadan, shops are open very late, and the shopping malls are packed with people - young and old - out and about enjoying themselves until the wee hours. This of course is contrary to what I am accustomed to - I am used to to getting up early (and of course feel very virtuous about getting up so early), doing my exercise and getting my errands and other tasks done early in the day. This is very different than how life ebbs and flows in Doha, and can be particularly difficult during Ramadan, when most shops don't open until 1 pm. It means that you have to adjust to a later start to the day, and even allows you to even sleep in now and again.
The fasting is not as difficult as it might sound. I have decided to fast with my other Muslim colleagues during Ramadan this time, and (other than my cup of coffee before I leave the house) have found that after the first few days of fasting, it becomes quite manageable. I find that the evening meal is so much more delicious after fasting for the day. A side benefit is I have lost the 5 lbs that I gained after arriving here (I guess an added bonus to the other more spiritual side of fasting).
The other lovely thing about Ramadan is that it is a time for acts of charity, most of which are unpublicized acts of kindness. ROTA delivers food and Ramadan decorations to those families in need. Other organizations offer the Iftar meal to elderly folks in their homes. There are many other good deeds happening across the country all month.
So, all of this to say, is that experiencing Ramadan in Qatar is very different than what I expected it to be, and much different that the perceptions I had from movies and/or TV. I am really enjoying experiencing this month of fasting and celebration in the Middle East.
